Short Stop The Wardrobe Caters to Women of a Certain Age and Size

Story by Beverly Scarborough

One of my favorite photos was taken in the early fifties. It’s a formal portrait of four female generations from my mother’s family, the youngest being my sister Jennifer and me. My great-grandmother and grandmother are attired in matronly black dresses. Their hair is gray and tightly permed and they have on sensible shoes.

When that picture was taken, my great-grandmother was the exact same age as my mother-in-law is today, a figure best left unrecorded. My mother-in-law grew up in Paris and succeeds at being what Henry James would call “elegantly turned out.” She wears couture and really exquisite shoes and even family members rarely see her without full Chanel makeup. Nona subscribes to Vogue, stays on good terms with the salespersons at Saks and Neiman’s, and while she never wastes money, looking polished and chic is definitely a top priority.

My grandmother was 55, four years younger than I am now. She was a doctor’s wife and world traveler, but like most of her generation, started looking elderly in her forties. Expectations have changed dramatically in half a century, and so have the accompanying images.

It all came home to me a few months ago when I wanted a stunning outfit for a special occasion. I was being recognized at the Girl Scouts’ Women of Distinction Luncheon, and unlike my friend Carole Strayhorn, who was also getting an award but has already gotten several roomfuls, this was my 15 minutes of fame. Now the sad truth is that I have never quite gotten it down about clothing and style. My dress is unfailingly appropriate, but rarely memorable. Shopping is not something I enjoy: my attention deficit disorder kicks in after about ten minutes and trying on a bunch of clothing is grueling hard work. Unlike my mother-in- law; or my friend Jana, who looks perfectly gorgeous no matter what she wears; or Catherine, who has created a designer collection from resale and thrift shops; I have never thought of getting dressed as a personal celebration.

I am 5’3” (I used to be 5’4” but seem to have lost an inch somewhere) and a size 12 on a good day. Now the average American woman is 5’4” and her dress size is 14. But the majority of fashionable shoes and clothing even in petite sizes is not designed for the short and squat or those who, to put it delicately, are getting on in years. I borrowed a pair of Manolo Blahniks from my daughter for the opening of the Long Center and spent the evening wobbling in discomfort. Those of us with generous thighs have difficulty finding flattering pants and skirts. Unless she has enlisted the services of a top-notch surgeon, a woman over 40 will probably do better to cover at least most of her décolleté. In my 20’s I read John Molloy’s Dress for Success and solemnly stuck to suits with silk blouses, plain hose and pumps for nearly three decades. After that I switched to Chico’s, a nice alternative, but how many colorful jackets and flowing black pants can one person own?

My recent quest for the great outfit started at an exclusive store in one of Austin’s tony shopping centers. But the saleswoman was scary and the only even vaguely workable ensemble would have cost more than my first car. It was on to the mall, where I was quickly anesthetized by the sheer volume of apparel and teeming crowds of people. And then I remembered The Wardrobe. The Wardrobe is a congenial boutique on West 35th Street, a serene and inviting place to visit. The business recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, and the owners, Traci Hiller and Mimi Bernhardt, cater to a clientele who are definitely women of a certain age or size or both. Hiller, a social worker, and Bernhardt, a nurse, saw a genuine need for a store with quality clothes that were forgiving and had great style. They make purchases in LA and New York City, and feature European imports, natural silks and linen, and one-of-a- kind items. Friends whose looks I admire shop there: Jane Hilfer, Sherrie Frachtman and Kelly White, to name just a few. Additionally, the store has fabulous accessories: unique jewelry, scarves and purses. Best of all, the staff are kindly, have impeccable taste, and gracefully advise, encourage and gently help keep a customer on track. “They’re family,” says Susan Sager, another loyal customer and one of the most elegant women I know. Sager says pointblank, she refuses to be punished for not being a size four and shops The Wardrobe when she doesn’t want something good, she wants something fantastic. “The clothes are remarkable many are true works of art,” she continues, mentioning that when she is not wearing her scarves from The Wardrobe she drapes them across her dining room table.

“We don’t allow negative self-talk here,” says Hiller, who has seen time and time again that all it takes is a modest renovation for any woman to undergo a positive transformation. Over the years, I have bought a versatile silk shift and blouse, a pinstriped suit, a marvelous olive sweater, a gray wool jacket and skirt for my grandson’s Bar Mitzvah, and several treasured pieces of jewelry. The items are investment pieces. They wear well, are easy to care for, and have interesting details.

It took two trips and some friendly counsel, but the weekend before my big event I had my outfit: a black and pastel checked shell and draped skirt with a spring green cardigan from Babette. All three pieces can be combined to advantage with other items in my closet. Their cost did not exceed the amount I paid for my first car.